Why are The Fens so flat? So God has a clear view ... (so says Graham Swift)

Ely Cathedral - as seen across the "Dean's Meadow"

Saturday was spent on pilgrimage. This time to the seat of the diocese in which Cambridge is located – the cathedral city of Ely. Ely is in Cambridgeshire about 14 miles north northeast of Cambridge (about 80 miles from London).

Ely is actually an island which, at 85 feet, is the highest land in “the Fens” in eastern England - a naturally marshy region that supports a rich ecology and numerous species of wildlife. 

Most of the fens were drained centuries ago, resulting in a flat, dry, low-lying agricultural region supported by a system of drainage channels and man-made rivers created by (dikes and drains) and supported by automated pumping stations. These are clear as you course along the rail line between Cambridge and Ely. The soil is dark and rich. It reminded me of my home, where I grew up near Lake Ontario. The term for the marshlands that were once the bottom of that glaciated lake did not sound as romantic though. Our term for it was the “mucklands” or simply, “the mucks.”

The Shrine of St. Etheldreda behind the High Altar
at Ely Cathedral

The city's origins lay in the foundation of an abbey in 673, under the protection of Saint Etheldreda, daughter of King Anna. St Etheldreda was a queen, founder and eventually abbess of Ely. She built a monastery, on the site of what is now the cathedral. This first abbey was destroyed in 870 by Danish invaders and rededicated to Etheldreda in 970 by Ethelwold, Bishop of Winchester. Over time, the abbots of Ely accumulated such wealth in the region that it became known the "second richest monastery in England."

One of the main streets
that runs through town

Because of its status as a cathedral, the municipality that surrounds it has almost always held the status of a city. As such, Ely is considered one of the smallest cities in England with a population of just over 20,000. It seems incongruous to have such a massive structure and its accompanying buildings situated in such a small city. And yet, there was something very human about the resulting scale. The Saturday Market was small and intimate, almost neighborly – not like the large and bustling market in Cambridge. The streets were narrow and populated with shops of every kind – mostly local with few of the large chains you see in the bigger towns. It was quite refreshing actually.

The nave of Ely Cathedral.
The choir and the Chancel with the High Altar
are located behind the rood screen
you see at the rear of this photo.

In a choirstall
waiting for Evensong to begin

And yet, the cathedral can sustain its ministry and outreach to the whole of the diocese in part because of the many visitors that come its way. 

The day ended with Evensong at 5:30 sung by the Choir of 16 boys and 6 men. A visiting parish group from the diocese and several other pilgrims like me made up the small congregation – along with the choir, we all fit in the choir stalls. As in every cathedral in the Church of England (mandated by canon law) the Daily Office is at least recited and is usually sung – and most sung in this style. How fitting to end the day surrounded once more with the “beauty of holiness” as God is praised. Large crowds are not necessary – just those who wish to raise their voices in praise.